Kanzashi Stole 古簪披肩

古簪披肩
開始日期: 2010/4/7
完成日期: 2010/5/5
織圖: 古簪披肩 by Margaret Edelson
線材: KOLKA 極細羊毛線 25 g/250 m
顏色: #6 橄欖綠
線量: 約 3.5 球 (870 m)
針碼: 日規 4 號 (3.3 mm)
尺寸: 70 吋 x 22 吋
珠子: 568 顆 6 號 中管銀橄欖綠/咖啡雙色日本圓珠

Kanzashi Stole
Start date: 2010/4/7
Finish date: 2010/5/5
Pattern: Kanzashi Stole by Magaret Edelson
Yarn: KOLKA Series M 100% Peruvian Highland Wool 25 g/250 m
Color: #6 Olive
Quantity: about 3.5 balls (approx. 870 m)
Needle size: 3.3 mm (Japenese #4)
Size: 70 in x 22 in
Beads: 568 size 6 silver lined two-tone olive and brown Japanese seed bead




早在三月就開始找織圖要來打母親節的禮物. 手上不少蕾絲披肩織圖, 就是找不到滿意的. 覺得夠好看夠複雜的難度都很高, 正反兩面都要做蕾絲, 因為可以專心織的時間不多, 每次織的時間也不長, 所以不能選太難的. 偏偏符合我編織時間品質的織圖, 感覺上又都太簡單, 不夠令人嘆為觀止, 怕老母不會滿意. 一天與瑪姐聊天, 想到手上有不少需要幫瑪姐測織的披肩織圖, 於是瑪姐說要不要測織古簪披肩啊? 想想也好, 因為是長型的, 我可以加珠珠增添點華麗感.

Early in March I started pattern hunting for Mother's Day. I have lots of lace shawl patterns in my collection but couldn't find one satisfying enough. Because this is for my mother, a very skilled knitter, and a picky one, thus, tough time on decisions. I don't have much time for knitting nowadays, and the time available for it isn't long, either, so I wouldn't want to over exert myself on a challenging lace shawl, but the shawls that wouldn't tire me too much simply weren't complicated enough for my mother's taste. Then, I had a talk with my dear friend Maragret, and the several patterns she designed that I have still to test-knit, she suggested why not test-knit Kanzashi Stole (originally called Antique Filigree)? I thought it a good idea, for it's rectangular shaped and I happen to have some beads to add some glamour to it.


為符合此披肩的設計精神, 蕾絲線顏色選擇讓我很傷腦筋, 因為庫存中唯一符合古董的顏色就只有這組橄欖綠的純羊毛極細線, 又剛好有買珠子配, 雖然我不是很情願用這色, 但還是硬給他用下去.

In order to concorde with the philisophy of the design, I had a hard time deciding the yarn color, too. The only color in my stash that fits the antique feel is this pure wool olive color lace yarn, and I do have beads to go with it. Although reluctantly, I chose the color anyway.


正式開打前, 還打了塊織片加上兩種不同大小的珠子, 好決定用那種大小和顏色, 也好計算披肩完成候大約呎吋, 起針數, 幾個花樣重複等等.

Before casting on officially, I made a swatch with 2 different sizes of beads to decide definitely bead size and color, number of stitches to cast on, approximate size of the finished stole, and numbers of repeat of the kanzashi pattern.



織片中兩種大小的珠子, 左邊 8 號, 右邊 6 號.
2 different sizes of beads in the swatch, 8 on the left, 6 on the right.


8 號中管銀黃色日本圓珠
Size 8 silver lined yellow Japanese seed bead


6 號中管銀橄欖/咖啡雙色日本圓珠
Size 6 silver lined 2-tone olive and brown Japanese seed bead


披肩由正中央向兩端打, 完成第一半時, 很不滿意, 因為覺得左右的邊和尾端的邊搭不起來, 還有中間別線起針解開挑針時出錯, 再加上這純羊毛線沒啥彈性, 很難搞, 所以心情特差, 想要拆掉. 但是測織還是要有交代, 還是要把打好的部份拉開看看, 好給設計師瑪姐建議.

The stole in knitted fron the center out. When I finished the first half I was very upset for I wasn't convinced by the combination of the side and end borders. To make matters worse, I messed up picking up the stitches from the provisional cast-on, and the yarn being pure wool lack elasticity, gave a me even harder time fixing the problem. I really wanted to rip it out, but as I was test knitting, I need to have feedbacks, so I pinned out the half, took some pictures, and wrote down some suggestions.



暫時拉開部分第一半
Partially stretched first half


尾端邊讀蕾絲和珠子, 因為拉開的關係, 三排珠子呈波浪狀.
The end border and beads. The 3-row beads turn into an undulating shape when stretched.


本來很鬱悶想拆掉, 但看到尾端蕾絲和三排珠子因為拉開成波浪狀, 覺得很好看, 最後決定繼續打完它.

I was so frustrated and wanted to rip, but when I saw the end border and the 3-row beads pulled into an undulated shape I thought it looked beautiful. And then I decided to finish the second half.



定型後的髮簪花樣
The kanzashi pattern after blocking


兩端邊和波浪三排珠
The end border and the 3-row undulated beads


左右邊與兩端邊, 最後決定將左右邊拉平.
Side and end borders. I decided to keep the side border flat.


過節當天讓小若拿給老母, 感覺上好像有喜歡, 因為老母說了句這花跟他打的某條蕾絲披肩花很像. 我很肯定地告訴她: 不, 絕對不一樣. 而且這條是世界上第一條完成的古簪披肩, 要有一樣的花, 都是後來才打出來的.

I had Scarlett delivered the shawl on Mother's Day and seemed like my mother was quite fond of it. For she said something that the kanzashi pattern look like a lace shawl she knitted (the Bleeding Heart Stole by Anne Hanson). I told her that it was definitely not the same. Besides, this is the FIRST Kanzashi Stole in the WORLD, any other kanzashi or kanzashi-alike stoles/shawls come AFTER yours.


老母沒批評我就很高興了.

Well, I'm glad she didn't criticize.

Un peu de chance Cardigan Progress 一點好運開襟外套進度

一點好運開襟外套身體完成後, 過了五週才收到袖子的織圖, 又要開始繼續織. 這件開襟外套設計的重點織一就是它的袖子: 澎澎袖, 或詩人袖, 澎澎的部分跟身體羅紋邊上方一樣的一些幸運草蕾絲花, 所以取名一點好運, 就是這個意思吧! 袖子從袖口起針向上做環狀編織, 不需要縫合喔! 一個晚上就打到下圖, 半個詩人袖, 當作是 project 進度好第二天網聚拿去交待.

About five weeks after I finished the body, the sleeve pattern arrived. The sleeves are actually the focus of the cardigan, they're puffy and lacey poet sleeves! Like the body, they have some clover leaf pattern on the puffy part, hence the name un peu de chance I suppose! The sleeves are knitted form the cuff, no seaming! I finished half a poet sleeve in one night so I could show off a little in the knitting meet-up the next day.



半個詩人袖
Half a poet sleeve


網聚時大家看到詩人袖都好喜歡, 還有人愛不釋手, 等織圖正式發表時, 每個人都可以打一件!

My knitting friends LOVE the sleeves! They simply ADORE the design. Some of them couldn't even get their hands off my poet sleeve! I guess they can all knit one for themselves when the pattern is published!


網聚回來, 詩人袖也打好了, 卻發現袖子很寬. 把打好的身體部分穿在託瑪姐買的 Knit Picks 可換頭輪針組 120 公分的 cable 上試穿, 真的是太大了! 雖然開打前有打測織片計算鬆緊度, 且確定打 38 的尺寸會在原織圖 34 和 38 的中間, 對我來說是剛好的 (因為我的鬆緊度比原織圖小), 不管怎樣, 就是太大了, 勢必要重打. 也許我沒有自己想像中的那麼身軀龐大吧!

After the meet-up, I finished the puffy part, tried it on and found it too large. Just to be sure, I transferred the body onto the Knit Picks 120 cm cable for interchangeable circulars I asked Margaret to brought me, tried it on and found, seriously, it's WAY too large! I did knit a swatch and calculated that I should knit size 38 and with my gauge smaller than that stated in the pattern, the actual size will come out between 34 and 38, which should be just right for me. Anywaym for whatever reason, it was really too big, reknitting seemed to be the solution. Or, maybe I'm not as large as I imagined myself to be! 34 IS my size!



詩人袖完成 (背景是小若的 IKEA 椅子, 右邊是小謙的手)
Poet sleeve (it's Scarlett's IKEA chair and that's Sebastian's arm and leg on the right)


因為這是幫 Marie-Adeline 測織她將要發表的第一個開襟外套織圖, 所以一定要謹慎, 且我已經決定要把袖子拆掉重打, 所以連身體也拆掉重來. 重打時就選 34 的尺寸, 用新的 Knit Picks 美規 4 號 3.5 mm 的針, 比原來可樂牌日規 5 號 3.6 mm 不過小 0.1 mm, 但打起來差好多, 鬆緊度更佳.

I am test knitting for Maire-Adeline's first to-be-published cardigan, I must be cautious, so I decided to rip out the sleeve and the body and reknit then. I reknitted with size 34, and with Knit Picks US4 3.5mm circs, which is only 0.1 mm smaller than the Clover Japanese5 3.6mm circs, but the gauge is so much better and also the result.


袖口是別線起針打的羅紋邊, 我很喜歡, 而且挑起別線上的針目時沒有出錯! 重打袖子是用 80 公分可換頭輪針 + Magic Loop 的打法, 很順很好織喔!

The cuff is knitted with provisional cast-on and I like this one, and I didn't mess up for the first time picking up stitches from the waste yarn! Also I used Magic Loop method with 80 cm circs to knit the sleeves.



袖子口
Sleeve cuff


第一隻袖子完成
Sleeve 1 done


套在手上
Sleeve on the arm


打這件開襟外套我買了 11 球線, 原來打 38 尺寸時一直怕線會不夠, 好在發現太大重打, 打完一隻袖子發線才用了一顆半, 兩隻袖子用三顆, 原來身體用掉四顆多, 重打小一號會用更少線, 估計線量夠打完這件外套. 即使不夠還是可以回士林毛線超市買, 上次去換線時知道還有一些同缸號的線, 只是我很不想為了這線再去一次, 感覺不好.

I bought 11 balls of yarn for this cardigan. When I was knitting the size 38 I was worried that I might ran out of yarn. But then it was too large and I had to reknit down one size. Sleeve 1 used up 1.5 balls, so 3 balls for two sleeves, and the body originally used up a little over 4 balls but reknitting a size smaller would use up less yarn. So I figure that it would be enough to finish the cardigan. I could go back to Shilin Yarn Supermarket for more if I ran out for I know there are still some balls of yarn from the same lot, but I really don't want to go there again for this unless it's absolutely necessary.



重打中的身體羅紋邊 + 一次幸運草花樣
Reknitting of the body, ribbing + cloverleaf pattern


結果重打身體進度很快, 兩天就完成了! 第二隻袖子也兩天完成, 本來可以更快些, 但打詩人袖時編織邊打瞌睡一直打錯, 所以慢了.

The reknitting actually progressed very fast, I finished the body in two days! And sleeve two in two days, too. I could be faster but I dozed off knitting the second sleeve so some unravelling was done.



身體 + 兩隻袖子
Body and sleeves


當初就是看上這個袖子才打的, 織友們都說好可愛, 只是可愛這個形容詞好像很難跟我連在一起! 但 Marie-Adeline 的設計很特別, 也許我也能穿可愛的衣服囉!

It was for these adorable cute puffy poet sleeves that made me want to knit this cardigan. It's just that it's hard to related the adjective cute/adorable to me, but Marie-Adeline is an incredible designer and maybe for that I can finally wear cute and adorable cardigans!