2009-12-30

February Gentleman Sweater for Sebastian 小謙的二月先生




二月先生

開始日期: 2009/11/22
完成日期: 2009/12/13
圖樣: February Lady Sweater by Pamela Wynne
線材: 恒源祥 來真德 歌爾登 羊絨型高級珍品絨線 (2217)
顏色: 105 黃色
針碼: 3mm (身體), 2.75mm (袖子), 2.5mm (袖子), 2.25mm (袖子)


小謙的二月先生用的現是從下面那張照片中的開襟外套來的. 他生的那年外婆去上海買的, 我媽照我挑的樣式打成那件外套, 穿了兩個冬季, 今年一定要拆掉重打了. 照面裡那件外套的釦子是木質的, 我特別指定要的種類.



有了打小若的二月小姐經驗, 打小謙的二月先生領子就小了 10 公分, 整體上感覺好很多. 身體寬度少 1 個花樣重複, 袖子最寬處少 2 個花樣重複, 如此收針可收少一點, 也不用一職換小號針, 小謙的袖子只換到 2.25mm, 但長度少了 2 個花樣重複. 釦子用和之前那件外套一樣的木質釦子, 當初買一包有 6 顆.

照片中的二月先生沒有蒸氣定型, 感覺上蕾絲花比較不開闊, 要找時間給它蒸一下. 小謙很喜歡這件二月先生, 打的時後三不五時就過來要求要"試試"!

2009-12-14

February Lady Sweater for Scarlett 小若的二月小姐



二月小姐
開始日期: 2009/11/1
完成日期: 2009/11/19
圖樣: February Lady Sweater by Pamela Wynne
線材: 恒源祥 來真德 歌爾登 羊絨型高級珍品絨線 (2217)
顏色: 205 粉紅色
針碼: 3mm (身體), 2.75mm (袖子), 2.5mm (袖子), 2.25mm (袖子), 2mm (袖子)


這組線是我生兩小那年外婆去上海買的, 一磅粉紅色給小若, 一磅黃色給小謙. 後來我沒時間打毛線, 是我媽給兩人一人打了一件開襟外套, 樣式我挑的. 小若的外套就是下圖中的那件. 那兩顆粉紅色釦子是古董, 是我媽不知從哪件衣服上剪下來的.



那件開襟外套穿了兩個冬季, 今年是真的穿不下了, 所以拆掉, 過熱水弄直, 重新繞成球, 想要打成另一件開襟外套. 當時一直想不出來該打甚麼樣好, 剛好自己打了一件二月小姐, 就決定打這個樣子. 有趣的是, 二月小姐的設計師靈感來自一件二月幼童毛衣, 現在我又把它倒回去!

這組線本來就細, 拆過處理後更細, 用 3mm 針打, 所以打了很久才打好. 與我的二月小姐不同處是, 小若的身體整排都有扣子, 袖子是全長, 有減針, 且邊打邊換小號針, 一直換到 2mm. 釦子是從我媽的舊釦子罐中挑的, 沒有一種釦子有五顆, 剛好有相同樣式但顏色不同的釦子, 就挑粉紅色 2 顆橘色 3 顆來縫.

小若的二月小姐打得蠻大的, 可以穿到五歲! 領子起太大, 可以小一點, 外婆說要再挑打個領子, 我拒絕, 那樣會完全破壞美感, 我寧可把毛衣拿去用溫水跟牛仔褲洗, 就會縮小一點, 也不要再上面亂搞一通把衣服弄得醜不拉機的誰要穿? 重點是, 小若很喜歡就好啦!

2009-10-26

February Lady Sweater Partially Reknitted 重織部分二月小姐











本來沒有想要重織二月小姐, 原來身上蕾絲部份有 3 個重複織錯, 多織兩段, 以前遠看以為是因為沒有蒸氣定型織片不平, 後來越看越礙眼, 拆掉重織身體蕾絲部分. 身體蕾絲原本有 27 個蕾絲重複, 第 1 個織錯的蕾絲重複是第 5 個, 所以幾乎全拆. 不過還好, 打得算快, 三天就完成. 身體重織後蕾絲重複有 28 個, 打錯的三個重覆有多 6 段的線, 至少可以多打一個蕾絲重複, 最後還有剩線說, 應該打到 29 個...

I wasn't thinking about reknitting some parts of my February Lady. I had mistakes in 3 Gull Lace pattern repeats which I thought weren't visible at a distance but now I found them standing out so I ripped out the Gull Lace part and reknitted it. There were 27 lace pattern repeats and my first mistake was repeat no. 5. So, litterally, yes, I ripped out almost ALL the lace part. I finished reknitting the body part in 3 days, and had enough yarn to knit 1 more repeat, 28 repeats now on my February Lady.


身體重織完, 接著重織袖子下半. 本來我就不喜歡七分袖的毛衣外套, 尤其二月小姐又是用較粗的線打. 再加上二月小姐的袖子沒有減針, 所以衣穿上去袖子下半就會自然呈現喇叭袖的感覺. 原本隻袖子就故意織得比較長, 希望越長它越長. 不過想想覺得即使變長袖口也會變更大, 於是拆掉後面 12 個重複 (原有 26 個重複), 用小一號日規 7 號針 (4.2mm) 來織, 結果效果沒不錯, 袖口小多了.

Then I started to reknitted the lower havles of the sleeves. I'm not a big fan of 3/4 length sleeves cardigans especially those knitted with heavier weight yarns. Besides, the sleeves of February Lady do not have decreases so when wearing the cardigan the lower half of the sleeves will have a bell-shaped effect which I don't like. So I ripped out the last 12 pattern repeats (there were 26) and reknitted with 4.2mm needles (Japanese size 7, February Lady was knitted in 4.5mm Japanese size 8 needles) and I was quite pleased with the result: the sleeves are narrower and not so bell shapey.


最後用蒸氣定型, 定過型的外套比較合穿, 長度也算適中, 重織一些部分是對的!

I steam blocked the cardigan this time and it became more comfortable for wearing, the width, the length are all better. So partial reknitting was a right decision!

2009-10-19

Oblique 斜斜開襟外套


真人示範正面
Modelled front



斜斜開襟外套
開始日期: 2009/4/16
完成日期: 2009/8/31
圖樣: Oblique by Véronik Avery
線材: CLS Pure Wools
顏色: #66 中麻灰
針碼: 4.5mm (日規 8 號)


Oblique

Start date: 2009/4/16

Finish date: 2009/8/31
Pattern:
Oblique by Véronik Avery
Yarn: CLS Pure Wools
Color: #66 Medium Heather Gray

Needle size: 4.5mm (JAP #8)



真人示範側面
Modelled profile



本來以為這外套可以在六月中去巴黎前打完, 但是近端午時天氣已經開始熱, 外套打不下去, 開始打去巴黎要用的春之鬱金香披肩 , 所以到出發前還剩一隻袖子. 回來後毛線都不想碰, 直到搬到暫住處才又把剩下的袖子打完.

I thought I could finished the cardigan before my trip to Paris in mid June. By the end of May the weather was getting warmer and warmer and I couldn't stand knitting a cardigan any more, and I wanted to knit a stole for the Paris trip so badly, by the time I was leaving for Paris, there was still one sleeve left to knit. After returning from Paris, I didn't even want to touch yarn, until we moved out of the apartment, which was going to be refurnished, then did I managed to finished the sleeve.


第一次縫接織片時是用勾針以鎖針縫合, 結果太緊了點, 接縫不漂亮. 等道領子也打好時, 就把接縫拆開, 第二次就用隱型縫的方式, 結果好多了. 但是, 我縫得不夠密, 只要用一點力拉接縫就會看到縫隙, 只好再把四邊拉克蘭的部分再拆開重新縫密一些, 就好多了. 至於脇邊和袖下就沒有縫第三次, 不知是否因為接縫兩邊是桂花針, 雖然縫得不夠密但是用點力拉開接縫好像沒有縫那麼大. 這件外套剛打好時覺得結果還算可以, 只是織片縫接前我沒有各別
它們定型到應有的尺寸, 因為暫住處不方便所致.

I crocheted the pieces together the first time sewing up and it turned out bad for I crocheted too tight. After I finished the collar, I ripped out the seams and used matress seam which had a much better result. BUT, I sewn loosely, so when pulled on the seams were gaping. So I ripped out the raglan seams and sewn them a little tighter. I didn't ripped out the sleeves and sides the third time, for the Moss Stitch pattern seems to pull the seams tight together somehow...Anyway, the gap wasn't as large. When the cardigan was finished, I felt fine with the outcome, although I didn't really block the pieces to measurement before sewing together, because it wasn't very convenient where we're staying during the refurnishment.


縫接好後又擱置了好久, 直到綠牛仔先生完成需要配扣子, 才順便把斜斜也帶去配. 終於可以票漂亮亮見人了. 配扣子前, 我用蒸氣重新定型斜斜, 前後差很多...第二次定型有用濕手怕蓋在上面烘, 且有用定型鋼線好好拉開, 第一次定型拉不開說. 也許有第一次直接在織片上蒸氣烘過, 所以第二次比較拉得開? 總之, 現在的結果比之前的結果令人滿意太多啦!

After the seaming, it was left along for another while until Mr. Greenjeans was finished and needed a button, then did I took Oblique along for button shopping. Before sewing on the button I re-steam-blocked it. It made a GREAT difference, this time. This time I put a damp handkerchief on top of the knitting while steaming, and I used blocking wires to really block the garment into measurement. I couldn't block into measurement the first time, maybe because I steamed directly over the knitting the first time which facilitate the second blocking? Anyway, I am so pleased with the result!



第二次定型
Second blocking



第一次定型
First blocking




扣子
Buttons

Mr. Greenjeans a.k.a. Mrs. Burgundy 綠牛仔先生 (又名勃根地女士)


真人示範正面自拍
Modelled front



綠牛仔先生/勃根地女士
開始日期: 2009/10/1
完成日期: 2009/10/14
圖樣: 綠牛仔先生 by Amy Swenson
尺碼: S
線材: Ornaghi Filati Merino Kind
顏色: #1208
針碼: 日規 5 (3.6mm), 4 (3.3mm), 3 (3mm), 2 (2.7mm) 號


Mr. Greenjeans/Mrs. Burgundy
Start date: 2009/10/1
Finish date: 2009/10/14
Pattern: Mr. Greenjeans by Amy Swenson
Size: S
Yarn: Ornaghi Filati Merino Kind
Color: #1208
Needle size: JAP #5 (3.6mm), #4 (3.3mm), #3 (3mm), #2 (2.7mm)



真人示範側面自拍
Modelled profile


本來並沒有很想打這件, 但是當時剛把以前打的一件毛衣拿來回收 (拆掉), 想要打成另一件外套, 不過加上一些其他的誘因催化, 就開打這件綠牛仔先生.

I wasn't planning on knitting this cardigan in the first place, but I just recycled some yarn from an old cardigan and was going to reknit into another one, then there were some other factors which acted as a catalyst and before I knew it I was starting Mr. Greenjeans.



正面
Front



背面
Back



使用的線比織圖所用細很多, 因為這線本來就細一級, 加上是之前打過拆下來過熱水處理過, 會再細半級, 得乖乖打織片量鬆緊度, 重新計算針數. 好在我可以用織圖中的 2X 尺碼針數為標準來打.

The yarn used was sport-DK weight yarn, and it was recycled which made it even thinner, much thinner than the aran weight yarn used in the pattern. So I had to swatch to get new gauge and recalculate the stitches. Luckily, I can adapt the size 2X of the pattern for my gauge.


由於拆下來的線到底有多長無法確定, 只能從重量去粗估, 所以一開始就決定綠牛仔先生要打合身的, 不要像織圖上那樣鬆鬆的, 且袖子要打全長, 且袖子上的羅紋與麻花樣要跟身體上的同一高度開始, 也因為如此心裡總是有不安全感怕線不夠.

Exactly how much yardage I have from the recycled yarn was never determined, I can only estimate through the weight, so I decided to knit a very fit Mr. Greenjeans, unlike the looser fit in the pattern, and I would like full length sleeves and the Ribs and Cables pattern had to start at the same height as that on the body. So I was feeling very insecured that I would ran out yarn before finishing the cardigan.


身體和袖子上半用日規 5 號針打, 身體和袖子分開後, 依照尺碼 S 要繼續平針編織 4 吋, 但我打了 4.5 吋, 確定包住整個胸部, 因為不想到時扣子縫上去後感覺跑到胸部上面去. 到了身體下半羅紋和麻花樣時換用日規 3 號針, 因為我打羅紋和麻花手會鬆, 為了花樣平整好看, 也為了省一點線, 所以用小兩號針. 不過其實對照織圖, 美規小一號針是小 0.5mm, 換成日規針碼大約就是小兩號囉! 最後套收時換用日規 4 號針, 為了蒸氣定型時有鬆份可以撐開.

I used 3.6mm (Japanese size 5) needles for the upper half of the body and sleeves, after dividing the sleeves from the body, I continued to knit for 4.5 inches instead of the 4 inches designed for size S, to make sure the yoke indeed covered all of my bust and thus the button wouldn't show up above the bust. I changed to 3mm (Japanese size 3) needles for the Ribs and Cables pattern for the lower body for I tend to knit ribs and cables looser thus using needles 2 sizes down. Actually, 1 needle size (0.5mm) down for US size is about 2 needle sizes (0.6mm) down for Japanese size. But I changed again to 3.3mm while binding off Ribs and Cables to create more give for later blocking.


身體完成後通常接著打袖子, 但是我怕線不夠, 所以先打扣洞邊, 把身體全部定案, 再將剩下的線平今到兩隻袖子上, 能打多長就打多長, 不過要兩隻袖子同時進行就是了. 扣洞邊織圖是說, 羅紋與麻花樣的部分 3 段挑 2 針, 平針部份也是 3 段挑 2 針, 領子後面起針處 1 目挑 1 針, 不過在 Ravelry 上看到有些人覺得羅紋與麻花樣部分應該改為 1 段挑 1 針比較平整. 當時我沒多想, 看了就馬上決定照做, 挑完針打下去後發現, 可能是因為織圖用的線粗, 要 1 段挑 1 針才不會皺起來, 定型起來比較好看, 我用的線細應該可以照原來的 3 段挑 2 針結果應該會比1 段挑 1 針來得漂亮, 不過已經挑好快打完了, 就算了.

Generally, after the body is finished, sleeves are the next part to knit. However, fearing that I might run out of yarn, I knitted the button band first, just to get it over with the whole body part, and then I can move on to knitting the sleeves peacefully, dividing the remaining yarn between them, and knit them as long as the yarn allowed, although I had to knit them at the same time. As to the button hole, it was designed to pick up 2 stitches every 3 rows on the Ribs and Cables part, also 2 sts every 3 rows for the stockinette stitch part, and 1 st every cast on st for the back of collar. I saw a note which quite a few knitters adapted is to pick up 1 st every row for the Ribs and Cables part. I didn't think and decided I would do the same. Later on I realized that the suggested yarn weight was aran and picking up 1 st per row might render a neater and smoother button band than the original 2 sts every 3 rows. The yarn I used was sport~DK weight which might not have that kind of problem and if I had picked up 2 sts every 3 rows the button band might have looked better. But I was almost done with the button band so I stuck to it.



扣洞邊
Button band



身體下襬部分羅紋與麻花樣
Ribs and Cables on the lower body



身體全部完成後, 終於可以安心打兩隻袖子了! 一直覺得線只夠打到七分袖, 為了能打長一點的袖子, 袖子部分的針是用日規 4 號針來挑回, 且一開始就做減針, 因為身體合身, 希望袖子也配合做成比較合的細長袖型. 當兩隻袖子平針部分打到和身體部分平針和羅紋與麻花樣交接處, 就換日規 3 號針來打羅紋與麻花樣. 接著每打幾段麻花, 就要換隻袖子, 兩邊同步, 平均分配線量. 打到超過七分袖長度時心裡鬆了一口氣, 不過發現線還有一點, 可是不確定到底還能打多少長度, 就這樣一隻袖子打一段麻花, 換隻袖子再打一段麻花...結果最後袖子共有 32 段麻花, 袖長剛好到我想要的手掌邊, 線只剩幾公尺. 真的是剛剛好, 打其他樣式的開襟外套可能還不行也!

After finished for good the body, I started the sleeves by using 3.3mm (Japanese size 4) needles to pick up the held stitches and started to decrease after a few stockinette st rounds. I knitted the body snuggly so the sleeves must be done the same way and I's like the sleeves to be as long as possible. When the stockinette part measured as long as the body's before the Ribs and Cables pattern, I changed to 3mm (Japanese size 3) needles for the R&C. I switched sleeve every few cables, trying to divide evenly the remaining yarn. I was relieved when the sleeves reached more than 3/4 sleeve length. There were still some yarn left but I wasn't sure how much longer I could make the sleeves so I swtiched sleeve every cable and at last I have 32 cables on the sleeves with the length right up to the bottom of my palm. Only a few meters of yarn left. It was perfect! I don't think it would be sufficient if I were to knit another style of cardigan.



袖子下半羅紋與麻花樣
Ribs and Cables on the lower sleeve



綠牛仔先生, 或是如我的織女朋友 M 說的: 勃根地女士, 是在一個不太愉悅的情況下開始打的, 但是結果卻是非常令人滿意, 沒有後悔打這件開襟外套!

I started knitting Mr. Greenjeans, a.k.a. Mrs. Burgundy, as my friend M said, under a not so pleasant circumstances, but the result is suprisingly satisfying, and I did not regret knitting it!

2009-09-17

Gossamer Garden Stole - finished at long last 花園蕾絲披肩- 終於完成!




花園蕾絲披肩
開始日期: 2008/10/1

完成日期: 2009/9/10
織圖:
Gossamer Garden Stole by Lia Liang
線材: Rowan Kidsilk Night (絲毛海)

顏色: 612 (紫紅)

針碼: 3.6mm (日規 5 號)
尺寸: 143cm x 54cm

Gossamer Garden Stole

Start date: 2008/10/1
Finish date: 2009/9/10
Pattern:
Gossamer Garden Stole by Lia W. Liang
Yarn: Rowan Kidsilk Night
Color: 612 (dusty magenta)

Needle size: 3.6mm (JP #5)
Size: 143cm x 54cm





蜘蛛網與鑽石花樣 (自然光)
Spider web and diamond motif (natural light)



蜘蛛網與鑽石花樣 (室內)
Spider web and diamond motif (light bulb)



荊棘葉花樣 (自然光)
Bramble leaf motif (natural light)



荊棘葉花樣 (室內)
Bramble leaf motif (light bulb)



由小若小姐真人示範
Modelled by Scarlett



這條披肩打了快一年, 終於完成了. 不知為何之前打得那麼慢, 可能覺得要小心打以免出錯, 因為這件是正反兩面都要做蕾絲花樣的, 所以慢慢打. 不過即使如此, 過了很久也只打到第一半的 94 排. 花園蕾絲跟意外的發現一樣, 分兩半打再接起來. 花園蕾絲特別的是它的扇貝邊. 為了這個扇貝邊, 去年我研究了很久, 做了一個教學, 還把之途盡量重畫得清楚, 希望更多編織同好能打花園蕾斯支持台灣的設計師 Lia Liang. 也許就是前面花太多精神研究, 又幫幾位熱血織女看她們織花園蕾絲, 自己的倒沒力氣一口氣織到完了.

It took almost a year to finish. I don't why why it progressed so slowly when I started, maybe it was because it also requires lace knitting on the wrong side and I tried not to make many mistakes, so after a few months I was only at row 94 of the first half. Like MS4 - Serendipity, the stole was knitted into two halves and then grafted together. What's special about GGS is her scallop edging. I studied it for a very long time and made a tutorial on my own version and recharted the charts as clearly as possible hoping that more Taiwanese knitters would knit this stole as a gesture of showing our support to its Taiwanese designer Lia Liang. Maybe I spent too much time on the studies and helped several knitters on their GGS and I didn't have enough stamina to go through with it then.


最近想把幾件半成品完成, 其中又以花園蕾絲完成度最低, 只能算 1/4 完成品! 原本還在想不知何時能完成, 因為之前打的進度很慢, 可是不知怎麼一下子第一半就打好了, 且出錯率低很多! 於是趕快繼續第二半, 竟然四五天就完成扇貝邊和主體.

Lately I wanted to finish a few UFOs, and GGS was actually 25% done. I wasn't sure when I could really finish it when I continued knitting but somehow I was knitting much faster then before and surprisingly didn't make many mistakes so before I knew it the first half was done. I started the second half right away and finished it in 4 or 5 days.


儘管如此, 接下來的才是重點: 平針縫接. 那可是我的罩門哪! 有多少漂亮的蕾絲披肩就是因為要平針縫接, 無奈之下被我捨棄不打, 去年開打花園蕾絲前打意外的發現, 一樣要縫接, 不管看多少次分解步驟圖片教學, 還是不敢動手. 說也奇怪, 在努力完成花園蕾絲時, 忽然覺得自己可以縫接了. 於是就這樣縫接起來. 天才的是, 我竟然接起來了, 雖然接成了上針, 但是這總是個開始啊! 拆掉縫接部分, 好好把 knitty.com 上平針縫接教學看完, 再接一起就 OK.

Nevertheless, it was the next step which mattered: grafting. It was my Achille's heel! I had to give up and not knit many beautiful shawls just because they need grafting! When I was knitting MS4 - Serendipity last year, no matter how many times I studied the step by step tutorial, I still couldn't get myslef to do it. This time, however, oddly enough, while finishing GGS, all of a sudden I felt I could do it. And I did. Although I grafted them into garter stitch, but it was a start! Anyway, I tore up the grafting, read the grafting tutorial by Theresa Vinson Stenerson on knitty.com , redid it and it was fine!


第一次縫接接成上針...
The first graft was grafted into garter stitch....


兩半因為時間上的差異, 打得鬆緊度不同, 後來打得這一半比較緊, 不知道是不是這個原因, 下水定型後長度幾乎沒變. 絲毛海的彈性應該不錯, 不過因為加了條銀蔥, 可能會影響, 還有針碼, 也許用日規 6 號會比較好些. 這個織圖因為中間蜘蛛網與鑽石花樣和兩邊的荊棘葉花樣模樣編的排數不同 (前者 32 排一重複, 後者 10 排一重複), 一打就要 180 排兩模樣才會剛好對到一起結束, 因此想要加長有點不可能, 會太長了, 所以想要長一點針碼就要換大, 或是用粗一點的線, 如襪線粗細的線材.







2009-09-15

Mystery Stole 4 - Serendipity 神秘長披肩 4 - 意外的發現


左下有一個花邊沒擺平
A peacock lace border tip was not smoothed out on the lower left hand side



神祕長披肩 4 - 意外的發現
開始日期: 2008/9/5
完成日期: 2008/10/14 (2009/9/13 完成平針縫接)
圖樣: 神祕長披肩意外 4 - 意外的發現長披肩與襪 by Georgina Bow Logsdon
線材: Kolka 極細羊毛線
顏色: #1 藍綠色
針碼: 3.3mm (日規 4 號)
尺寸: 165 公分 x 50 公分

Mystery Stole 4 - Serendipity
Start date: 2008/9/5
Finish date: 2008/10/14 (2009/9/13 finished grafting)
Pattern: Mystery Stole 4 - Serendipity Stole and Socks by Georgina Bow Logsdon
Yarn: Kolka Series M
Color: #1 Blue Green
Needle: 3.3mm (JAP #4)
Size: 165cm x 50cm






兩邊起頭處的蕾絲花與珠珠花
The lace and beading motifs on the two ends



精心設計的蕾絲圖樣
Beautifully designed motif shown with lace



正中央的蕾絲與珠珠圖案
Center lace and beading pattern



這條披肩去年九月跟著神祕長披肩 4 的群織會一起織, 十月中完成. 披肩分為兩半, 由兩頭往中間織, 特別的是, 它的設計是利用蕾絲洞和珠珠來組成花樣, 而且兩半縫接處不是正中央, 一半比較長, 一半比較短.

I started knitting with the Mystery Stole 4 - Serendipity KAL last September and finished the clues in mid October. It was knitted from the ends toward the center and then grafted together, although the spot where you graft was not the exact center. What's really special about this stole is that the motif design is formed by lace and beading, truly exquisite.


十一個月前織好兩半, 卻遲遲未縫接, 實在是因為縫接是我的罩門哪! 當時我把網路上能找到清楚且附分解動作照片的平針縫接教學都看過 n 遍, 就是沒辦法動手. 披肩的設計師自己有一套平針縫接方法, 也有教大家怎麼做, 說她的方式比較容易, 一目了然, 但我卻越看越花...

Although the knitting was finished 11 months ago but it was never done for I couldn't get myself to graft the pieces together for grafting was my Achille's heel. I read all the step by step pictorial tutorials online but just couldn't do it. Georgina, the MS4 designer, has her own way of doing it, which she said would easier to understand and execute, and taught us how to, but I was as confused as ever...


最近發現有幾件半成品想要完成, 才又會把意外的發現長披肩再拿出來準備縫接. 其實, 是在打另一件半成品花園蕾絲披肩時, 忽然覺得我可以平針縫接 (花園蕾絲披肩也是由兩邊往中間打再縫接起來), 打完後就憑著感覺縫接起來, 只是, 我接成了上針, 後來拆掉, 好好的把 knitty.com 上的平針縫接教學看一遍, 重新來一次才 OK. 於是, 要縫接意外的發現長披肩時就更有把握了.

Recently I wanted to finished a few UFOs, that was when I took out Serendipity for grafting. Actually, it was while I was knitting Gossamer Garden Stole when all of a sudden I felt I was ready to graft. So I grafted Gossamer Garden Stole


縫接完畢心裡覺得真是高興, 完成兩個半成品, 正在看剛縫接完的披肩時覺得怪怪的, 為何中間會有一整排的珠珠呢? 看了半天才恍然大悟: 我接錯邊了! 把一半的中間和另一半的起頭接在一起啦! 為何會這樣? 又說來話長.

I was so happy when I finshed grafting Serendipity but when I lookd at it and found it looking odd: I grafted one center to one end! And how did this happen? Another long story...


當初起針時設計師用一般起針法, 因為是打蕾絲披肩, 完成後要下水定型, 一般起針法怕彈性不夠, 影響定型, 於是我用別線起針, 打完後再來套收. 設計師有告訴過我不需要這樣, 直接起針即可. 我為何會有這樣的疑慮? 因為在歐美流行的神秘群織會, 不到最後不知道東西會長怎樣, 例如一個群織會打披肩, 一開始會說明披肩型狀, 大約呎吋, 所需線量及其他 (例如珠珠的量要多少), 且織圖會分很次給, 一星期給一部分, 再加上這個群織會織的披肩設計與重不同, 所以當時大家打的時候問題很多呢.

Serendipity used cable cast-on, but since we were knitting a lace stole, some of us in the KAL were concerned that it wouldn't be elastic enough for the final blocking. Georgina assured us and confirmed that cable cast-on would be fine, but still...it was a Mystery KAL, no one would know how the whole thing would look like until someone finish knitting it. Anyway, I used provisional cast-on and was going to cast-off later. And that's why I grafted one center to one end. Should've cast-off ages ago. Georgina did told me to do so long ago. Should've listen to the designer!


沒辦法一定要拆, 重新縫接. 第二次縫接到最後剩 1/4 時發現, 頭上 1/3 處少了一個步驟所以有個大洞, 只得退回去, 再來一次. 第三次縫接到完都 OK. 但是在量定型前尺寸時, 因為線頭都還沒有收, 一手將量好的披肩拿起來, 腳卻踩到縫收的線頭, 那條線因為拆了好幾次有些地方也比較鬆了, 結果在後 1/3 處斷掉! 只好把後 1/3 拆掉, 再重接. 真是一波四折. 為了避免夜長夢多, 當天趕快就下水定型.

So I had to redo it. When there was 1/4 left the second time, I found a hole at the first 1/3 where I left out a step and a hole was formed...had to unravel and do it again. The third time was fine. I took pictures before blocking and when I was picking up the stole I stepped on the the grafting yarn tail, since I ripped and grafted several times the yarn was a little worn at some parts, and it BROKE OFF at about 1/3 from the end of row! Ripped off AGAIN the latter 1/3 and REGRAFTED AGAIN! 4 grafting for one stole...to avoid further complications, I blocked the stole right away.


披肩定型後寬度只有 50 公分, 並不寬, 不過圍著 60 公分寬的春之鬱金香去過巴黎後發現, 這種寬度果然適合國外氣候用. 台灣氣候要的話一定要寬一點, 60+ 公分, 當披肩披時背才不會一半在外面還是很冷, 窄一點就只能折起來當圍巾用, 那還要看用的線夠不夠細, 不夠細當圍巾就會厚重, 怕不舒服或太悶熱. 要不然就得打窄一點, 真的當圍巾打, 不能做披肩打囉.

After blocking the stole it was only 50cm at width, not very wide, this is due to the wool laceweight yarn I use and the pattern was not extendable. After wearing 60cm wide Spring Tulips Stole to Paris, I realized that, really, 40~60cm width stoles are sufficient for the weather there. But in Taiwan, it has to be wider (60+cm, it will enlongate while in use), for when it's cold enough to use a stole, you want your whole back covered or the lower back will be chilly. If the stole is not wide enough to cover the whole back, it could be folded up and used as a scarf, but the stole itself should be knitted prefereably with thinner yarn (laceweight), if not it might be too bulky and uncomfortable around the neck.

2009-09-06

Spring Tulips Stole 春之鬱金香披肩



春之鬱金香披肩
開始日期: 2009/4/26
完成日期: 2009/5/17
圖樣: Spring Tulips Stole by Melanie Fuller
線材: Malabrigo Yarn Lace
顏色: #148 Holly Hock
針碼: 3.3mm (日規 4 號)
尺寸: 171.5 公分 x 60 公分


Spring Tulips Stole
Start date: 2009/4/26
Finish date: 2009/5/17
Pattern: Spring Tulips Stole by Melanie Fuller
Yarn: Malabrigo Yarn Lace
Color: #148 Holly Hock
Needle: 3.3mm (JP #4)
Size: 171.5cm x 60cm


為了去巴黎而打的披肩, 還是插在斜斜開襟外套中間打的. 花樣很容易記, 又好打, Malabrigo 蕾絲線手感極好, 用它打是種享受. Holly Hock 紫紅色打起來比光看毛線漂亮, 剛好又是很鬱金香的顏色. 去巴黎時都是晚上出去當圍巾用, 所以都沒有照相, 無真人示範.

This the stole I knitted specifically for my trip to Paris, started when I was knitting Oblique. The tulip pattern was easy to memorize, easy to knit, and Malabrigo Lace Merino was HEAVENLY to work with! The red purple Holly Hock looks even prettier knitted up then as a skein and it was perfect as the color tulips. But I wore it only at night in Paris, so no pictures were taken, hence, no modelling in person!




鬱金香蕾絲花
The tulips

2009-09-02

Recent updates: Oblique and Gossamer Garden Stole 作品近度更新: 斜斜開襟外套與花園蕾絲披肩

斜斜開襟外套四月開打至今快五個月了, 終於在八月底完成, 但是扣子還沒有買來縫, 外套也還沒有完全定型好, 至少希望下襬羅紋邊部分要拉平一點, 拉克蘭的部份也要再平一些, 等扣子縫好了下水洗過再定型.


尚未裝扣子或最後定型

Without buttons and final blocking

斜斜開襟外套
開始日期: 2009/4/16
完成日期: 2009/8/31
圖樣: Oblique by Véronik Avery
線材: CLS Pure Wools
顏色: #66 中麻灰
針碼: 4.5mm (日規 8 號)


Oblique

Start date: 2009/4/16

Finish date: 2009/8/31
Pattern:
Oblique by Véronik Avery
Yarn: CLS Pure Wools
Color: #66 Medium Heather Gray

Needle size: 4.5mm (JAP #8)

本來以為這外套可以在六月中去巴黎前打完, 但是近端午時天氣已經開始熱, 外套打不下去, 開始打去巴黎要用的春之鬱金香披肩 (尚未 po 文) , 所以道出發前打到剩一隻袖子. 回來後毛線都不想碰, 直到搬到暫住處才又把剩下的袖子打完. 第一次縫接織片時是用勾針以鎖針縫合, 結果太緊了點, 接縫不漂亮. 等道領子也打好時, 就把接縫拆開, 第二次就用隱型縫的方式, 結果好多了. 但是, 我縫得不夠密, 只要用一點拉接縫就會看到縫隙, 只好再把四邊拉克蘭的部分再拆開重新縫密一些, 就好多了. 至於脇邊和袖下就沒有逢第三次, 不知是否因為接縫兩邊是桂花針, 雖然縫得不夠密但是用點力拉開接縫好像沒有縫那麼大. 要找時間去買四個扣子來縫...這件外套打的結果還蠻滿意的, 只是織片縫接前我沒有把它們定型到應有的尺寸, 因為暫住處不方便所致. 我已經寄話把年初打的也是 Veronik Avery 設計的一塊半開襟外套拆掉重打, 之前打得太鬆, 尺寸又比較大, 希望重打後尺寸可以滿意.



第一半 120 排

First half at row 120


花園蕾絲披肩
開始日期: 2008/10/1

織圖:
Gossamer Garden Stole by Lia Liang
線材: Rowan Kidsilk Night (絲毛海)

顏色: 612 (紫紅)

針碼: 3.6mm (日規 5 號)

Gossamer Garden Stole

Start date: 2008/10/1

Pattern:
Gossamer Garden Stole by Lia W. Liang
Yarn: Rowan Kidsilk Night
Color: 612 (dusty magenta)

Needle size: 3.6mm (JP #5)


這條披肩在去年最後一次 po 文後進度龜速, 昨天拿出來重新開打前只打到了 94 排, 這還只是第一半呢! 每次拿出來打都只能打一兩排就要偷笑了, 不知道為何總是這麼慢. 昨天傍晚才開打到晚上兩小睡覺時已經打了26排 (120 排)! 今天兩小睡午覺起來後繼續打到兩小睡覺時又打了 30 排 (150 排)! 離完成還有 30 排! 重新開打的速度變快很多, 不知為何, 也許就是人家說的生一個孩子笨三年, 我一次生兩個要笨三年但是比人家成度上笨兩倍?!


花園蕾絲近照
Gossamer Garden Stole up close

2009-05-25

Oblique - Back piece done 斜斜開襟外套 - 後片完成



斜斜開襟外套
開始日期: 2009/4/16
圖樣: Oblique by Véronik Avery
線材: CLS Pure Wools
顏色: #66 中麻灰
針碼: 4.5mm (日規 8 號)

Oblique
Start date: 2009/4/16
Pattern: Oblique by Véronik Avery
Yarn: CLS Pure Wools
Color: #66 Medium Heather Gray
Needle size: 4.5mm (JAP #8)


光是後片就搞了一個多月才完成, 因為 Véronik Avery 設計的毛衣很漂亮但是打起來很複雜, 一個後片有四種花樣, 為了不想因為打錯花一直拆, 所以小心翼翼每打幾針看一下花樣的模樣編, 確認沒打錯, 導致進度超緩慢.
It took me more than a month to finish the back. Although Véronik Avery's designs are all very beautiful but they are really complicated. There are four different stitch patterns for the back, I didn't want to make mistakes and frog, so I knitted very slowly and check every few stitches thus lengthened the progress.

進度緩慢就算了, 中間還差了個春之鬱金香, 斜斜完全停擺, 進度就更慢了. 好不容易腰身部分的減針開始加針, 到最後一次加針時發現針數不對? 發現原來少減了一次針! 這就是中間停工前沒有做筆記的原故, 加上笨笨的沒看清楚有幾個段數環! 所以就拆吧~原本打了六個減針三個加針拆到剩三個減針, 因為健忘的我起頭處減了但結尾處忘記減哪!
Besides the slow progress, I suspended knitting Oblique for Spring Tulips Stole (the stole I'm going to wear to Paris), pushing the finish date even further into the future. When I got to the last increase for the waist increase I had 1 extra stitch, because I forgot to decrease the left side on one of the waist decreases. I stopped to knit Spring Tulips and didn't make notes and before resuming the project failed to check thoroughly my markers...so, FROG! HAd to rip out 3 increases and 3 decreases...

重打後順利許多, 很快就打到腋下減針要開始做拉克蘭處, 這下容易打多了, 因為花樣熟了不用一直看模樣編確認, 且是每兩排正面減針, 就這樣很高興地減啊減啊到了最後一次減針, 一算....不對啊! 怎麼多出這麼多針呢? 這就是 Veronik Avery 的設計複雜的地方, 因為減針處牽涉到蕾絲花, 我可能想太多還繼續有打掛針, 這樣反而又加回去了. 沒辦法, 只好把拉克蘭部分拆掉重打, 還好一天就打完, 第二次沒問題, 每減一次算一次針.
After the major frogging the back went on fine for I memorized the four stitch patterns and when I was getting to the bind off part I founf there were too many stiches left! This is why I said Véronik Avery's designs are complicated: you have to decrease with LACE stitch patterns! And it's very tricky! I didn't count the stitches so I ended up increasing on some rows instead of decreasing. Frogged again and reknitted. Luckily it only took a day to redo. Counted while decreasing.

呼~~
Whew!

不過剛發線收針收太緊了點? 等等拆開換大一號針收, 織片我還沒蒸氣烘定型呢!
But I just realized that I bound off a bit too tight, should have bound off using needles one size larger.



身體左右兩側的桂花針
Moss stitch pattern on the sides


右側的右斜蕾絲
Right slanting diagonal lace pattern on the right


中間的結構蕾絲
Textured lace pattern in the center


左側的左斜蕾絲
Left slanting diagonal lace pattern on the left

2009-05-18

Mauresque Socks 摩爾襪

最近事多勞累懶得寫所以這雙摩爾襪雖然已完工多時卻遲遲未po文哪!



摩爾襪
開始日期: 2009/4/10
完成日期: 2009/4/26
圖樣: Mauresque Socks by Nicole Masson
線材: Grignasco Bambi Meino Extrafine 芭比細毛線
顏色: #178 粉紅色
針號: 2.25mm (美規 1 號)
尺寸: 美國鞋號 7 號

這是第一雙從上往下打的襪子. 我還是對這種傳統上往下打的襪子有不安全感, 怕怕的, 因為到了腳尖很多都要 graft 起來收針, 偏偏 grafting 是我的罩門. 這雙襪子的花樣設計實在特別, 非常吸引人, 尤其設計師的靈感來自於西班牙一座阿拉伯式城堡(註), 唸西文又熱愛西班牙的 Regina 豈能不織? 即使是從上往下打? 若非如此老娘我才不幹呢!

其實, 就是一股衝動, 圖樣雖然印出來看了又看, 事實上我根本就沒把最後收尾的地方看清楚, 心想反正就是 grafting 嘛, 船到橋頭自然直, 牙一咬就開打! 打到最後發現, 腳尖是不斷收針到個位數針目, 剪斷毛線穿過餘目拉緊即可. 真是瞎貓碰到死耗子, 逃過一劫, 不用硬著頭皮 graft 收尾!

腿上的花樣看起來複雜其實滿好打的, 每一區段都不一樣, 到了中間過後就對稱打回去, 這樣打起來有意思不會無聊, 腳背上的花, 很容易記, 打一次就可記住. 只是圖樣寫得不是很清楚, 容易讓人誤解. 花樣以圖表顯示, 但必須配上說明才會清楚, 可惜說明也不清楚, 也很容易讓人搞錯. 打第一隻時就是這樣被嚇了好幾次, 打第二隻就順利多了.

第一次打從上往下, 不清楚襪頭到底鬆緊度有多大, 只記得老媽子說過用大三號針起, 打完後發現, 因為這花樣彈性很大, 其實大兩號甚至大一號就可以了, 除非打平針就要大幾號針起比較保險.

照片中腿上有一個花樣中間繞了兩圈毛線, 此花樣圖表說明中說繞一圈, 可圖表說明下方還有備註說是繞兩圈. 這就是所謂不清楚的地方, 應該直接在說明中一次講清楚.

另外, 第 15 和第 39 段要用到麻花針打交叉花樣時, 段的起頭處其實是往後移了一目, 不然就要講清楚: 過了記號圈 (標示段之開頭用) 後第一目照花打 (上針就打上, 下針就打下), 接著照圖表標示打. 同樣的, 第 26 段要繞兩圈的那個花樣, 記號圈後那一針也是要照花打 (上針就打上, 下針就打下), 接著照圖表標示打. 如此較不容易混淆.

打腳背處也說明不清, 他是把上一段最後一個上針先移到左針, 因為腳背花有31目, 這是腳背的第一針. 接著這針要以打上針且毛線要在織片後面的方式滑到右針. 若看原說明會搞不清楚, 也許是我太笨了吧!







我很喜歡這摩爾襪, 理想中是想用沙色, 蜂蜜色或玫瑰金的線來打, 不過手上沒有. 因為西班牙的城堡在清晨太陽起來照射時會呈玫瑰金色, 傍晚太陽西下照射時會成金色或蜂蜜色, 非常的漂亮, 要親眼看過才能體會的美麗與感動.

: 靈感來自於 Palacio de Aljafería .

2009-04-10

[FO] Lemons and Oranges 檸檬橘子襪



檸檬橘子襪
開始日期: 2009/3/24
完成日期: 2009/4/8 (2009/3/29~4/8暫停去打二月小姐)
織圖: Fingeringweight Slip Stitch Heel Toe-up Sock by Wendy Johnson
毛線: Grignasco Bambi 芭比細毛線 100% 特級美麗諾
顏色: #863 橘色, #858 黃色
針碼: 2mm (美規0號)
尺寸: 美國鞋碼 7 號


Lemons and Oranges
Start date: 2009/3/24
Finish date: 2009/4/8 (2009/3/29~4/8 stopped to knit February Lady Sweater)
Pattern: Fingeringweight Slip Stitch Heel Toe-up Sock by Wendy Johnson
Yarn: Grignasco Bambi 100% Merino Extrafine
Color: #863 Orange, #858 Yellow
Needle: 2mm (US0)
Size: US shoe size 7



這雙襪是用B送的 Knit Picks Harmony Wood 6吋雙頭襪針組中的 2mm 襪針打的. 果真好用, 差好多! 比原來那個便宜的竹針 - 軟到像剔牙的牙籤一樣的竹針 - 好用多了! 至少打的時候不用刻意放慢速度並且不能用力, 深怕把針折斷! 不過打好第二隻 1/4 時就暫停跑去打二月小姐, 本來應該會先完成襪子才開打二月小姐, 誰曉得剛好找到線了, 又碰到天氣冷, 趕快開打完成. 二月小姐完成後第二天檸檬橘子也完成了!
I used the 2mm needles from the Knit Picks Harmony Wood 6" Sock Needle Set to knit this pair. These needles are really great, very smooth and slick but still have enough friction to hold the thin slippery yarn. They're MUCH better than those cheap bamboo one I bought, which were to soft, just like tooth picks. I had to conciously knit slower and not to apply force on the needles to prevent myself from snapping them. I stopped at 25% of sock 2 to knit February Lady Sweater, although I intended to finish the socks first but I just got my hands on some suitable yarn and the weather was still chilly so I grabbed the chance and started knitting the sweater instead. Anyway, I finished the socks the day after I finished the sweater!



這次的腳跟底作法不同, 其實跟分給襪 (Bungay Socks) 一樣, 只是腳背有打花, 但是計算錯誤, 打出來太小了, 最後送給我媽! 這次要好好練習這種腳跟底作法.
The gusset is different from previous pairs of socks, well, it's the same as Bungay Socks, but I miscalculated and it ended up too small so I had to give them to my mom! Anyway, I had a good practice on this kind of gusset making.



這襪的顏色在陽光下照起來過度明亮, 調了很久, 才盡量調到接近實際顏色.
The color was too bright under the sunlight and I had to adjust a lot just trying to make it look as close as the actual color.