Showing posts with label stole. Show all posts
Showing posts with label stole. Show all posts

2010-05-07

Kanzashi Stole 古簪披肩




古簪披肩
開始日期: 2010/4/7
完成日期: 2010/5/5
織圖: 古簪披肩 by Margaret Edelson
線材: KOLKA 極細羊毛線 25 g/250 m
顏色: #6 橄欖綠
線量: 約 3.5 球 (870 m)
針碼: 日規 4 號 (3.3 mm)
尺寸: 70 吋 x 22 吋
珠子: 568 顆 6 號 中管銀橄欖綠/咖啡雙色日本圓珠

Kanzashi Stole
Start date: 2010/4/7
Finish date: 2010/5/5
Pattern: Kanzashi Stole by Magaret Edelson
Yarn: KOLKA Series M 100% Peruvian Highland Wool 25 g/250 m
Color: #6 Olive
Quantity: about 3.5 balls (approx. 870 m)
Needle size: 3.3 mm (Japenese #4)
Size: 70 in x 22 in
Beads: 568 size 6 silver lined two-tone olive and brown Japanese seed bead




早在三月就開始找織圖要來打母親節的禮物. 手上不少蕾絲披肩織圖, 就是找不到滿意的. 覺得夠好看夠複雜的難度都很高, 正反兩面都要做蕾絲, 因為可以專心織的時間不多, 每次織的時間也不長, 所以不能選太難的. 偏偏符合我編織時間品質的織圖, 感覺上又都太簡單, 不夠令人嘆為觀止, 怕老母不會滿意. 一天與瑪姐聊天, 想到手上有不少需要幫瑪姐測織的披肩織圖, 於是瑪姐說要不要測織古簪披肩啊? 想想也好, 因為是長型的, 我可以加珠珠增添點華麗感.

Early in March I started pattern hunting for Mother's Day. I have lots of lace shawl patterns in my collection but couldn't find one satisfying enough. Because this is for my mother, a very skilled knitter, and a picky one, thus, tough time on decisions. I don't have much time for knitting nowadays, and the time available for it isn't long, either, so I wouldn't want to over exert myself on a challenging lace shawl, but the shawls that wouldn't tire me too much simply weren't complicated enough for my mother's taste. Then, I had a talk with my dear friend Maragret, and the several patterns she designed that I have still to test-knit, she suggested why not test-knit Kanzashi Stole (originally called Antique Filigree)? I thought it a good idea, for it's rectangular shaped and I happen to have some beads to add some glamour to it.


為符合此披肩的設計精神, 蕾絲線顏色選擇讓我很傷腦筋, 因為庫存中唯一符合古董的顏色就只有這組橄欖綠的純羊毛極細線, 又剛好有買珠子配, 雖然我不是很情願用這色, 但還是硬給他用下去.

In order to concorde with the philisophy of the design, I had a hard time deciding the yarn color, too. The only color in my stash that fits the antique feel is this pure wool olive color lace yarn, and I do have beads to go with it. Although reluctantly, I chose the color anyway.


正式開打前, 還打了塊織片加上兩種不同大小的珠子, 好決定用那種大小和顏色, 也好計算披肩完成候大約呎吋, 起針數, 幾個花樣重複等等.

Before casting on officially, I made a swatch with 2 different sizes of beads to decide definitely bead size and color, number of stitches to cast on, approximate size of the finished stole, and numbers of repeat of the kanzashi pattern.



織片中兩種大小的珠子, 左邊 8 號, 右邊 6 號.
2 different sizes of beads in the swatch, 8 on the left, 6 on the right.



8 號中管銀黃色日本圓珠
Size 8 silver lined yellow Japanese seed bead



6 號中管銀橄欖/咖啡雙色日本圓珠
Size 6 silver lined 2-tone olive and brown Japanese seed bead



披肩由正中央向兩端打, 完成第一半時, 很不滿意, 因為覺得左右的邊和尾端的邊搭不起來, 還有中間別線起針解開挑針時出錯, 再加上這純羊毛線沒啥彈性, 很難搞, 所以心情特差, 想要拆掉. 但是測織還是要有交代, 還是要把打好的部份拉開看看, 好給設計師瑪姐建議.

The stole in knitted fron the center out. When I finished the first half I was very upset for I wasn't convinced by the combination of the side and end borders. To make matters worse, I messed up picking up the stitches from the provisional cast-on, and the yarn being pure wool lack elasticity, gave a me even harder time fixing the problem. I really wanted to rip it out, but as I was test knitting, I need to have feedbacks, so I pinned out the half, took some pictures, and wrote down some suggestions.



暫時拉開部分第一半
Partially stretched first half



尾端邊讀蕾絲和珠子, 因為拉開的關係, 三排珠子呈波浪狀.
The end border and beads. The 3-row beads turn into an undulating shape when stretched.



本來很鬱悶想拆掉, 但看到尾端蕾絲和三排珠子因為拉開成波浪狀, 覺得很好看, 最後決定繼續打完它.

I was so frustrated and wanted to rip, but when I saw the end border and the 3-row beads pulled into an undulated shape I thought it looked beautiful. And then I decided to finish the second half.



定型後的髮簪花樣
The kanzashi pattern after blocking



兩端邊和波浪三排珠
The end border and the 3-row undulated beads



左右邊與兩端邊, 最後決定將左右邊拉平.
Side and end borders. I decided to keep the side border flat.



過節當天讓小若拿給老母, 感覺上好像有喜歡, 因為老母說了句這花跟他打的某條蕾絲披肩花很像. 我很肯定地告訴她: 不, 絕對不一樣. 而且這條是世界上第一條完成的古簪披肩, 要有一樣的花, 都是後來才打出來的.

I had Scarlett delivered the shawl on Mother's Day and seemed like my mother was quite fond of it. For she said something that the kanzashi pattern look like a lace shawl she knitted (the Bleeding Heart Stole by Anne Hanson). I told her that it was definitely not the same. Besides, this is the FIRST Kanzashi Stole in the WORLD, any other kanzashi or kanzashi-alike stoles/shawls come AFTER yours.


老母沒批評我就很高興了.

Well, I'm glad she didn't criticize.


2009-09-15

Mystery Stole 4 - Serendipity 神秘長披肩 4 - 意外的發現


左下有一個花邊沒擺平
A peacock lace border tip was not smoothed out on the lower left hand side



神祕長披肩 4 - 意外的發現
開始日期: 2008/9/5
完成日期: 2008/10/14 (2009/9/13 完成平針縫接)
圖樣: 神祕長披肩意外 4 - 意外的發現長披肩與襪 by Georgina Bow Logsdon
線材: Kolka 極細羊毛線
顏色: #1 藍綠色
針碼: 3.3mm (日規 4 號)
尺寸: 165 公分 x 50 公分

Mystery Stole 4 - Serendipity
Start date: 2008/9/5
Finish date: 2008/10/14 (2009/9/13 finished grafting)
Pattern: Mystery Stole 4 - Serendipity Stole and Socks by Georgina Bow Logsdon
Yarn: Kolka Series M
Color: #1 Blue Green
Needle: 3.3mm (JAP #4)
Size: 165cm x 50cm






兩邊起頭處的蕾絲花與珠珠花
The lace and beading motifs on the two ends



精心設計的蕾絲圖樣
Beautifully designed motif shown with lace



正中央的蕾絲與珠珠圖案
Center lace and beading pattern



這條披肩去年九月跟著神祕長披肩 4 的群織會一起織, 十月中完成. 披肩分為兩半, 由兩頭往中間織, 特別的是, 它的設計是利用蕾絲洞和珠珠來組成花樣, 而且兩半縫接處不是正中央, 一半比較長, 一半比較短.

I started knitting with the Mystery Stole 4 - Serendipity KAL last September and finished the clues in mid October. It was knitted from the ends toward the center and then grafted together, although the spot where you graft was not the exact center. What's really special about this stole is that the motif design is formed by lace and beading, truly exquisite.


十一個月前織好兩半, 卻遲遲未縫接, 實在是因為縫接是我的罩門哪! 當時我把網路上能找到清楚且附分解動作照片的平針縫接教學都看過 n 遍, 就是沒辦法動手. 披肩的設計師自己有一套平針縫接方法, 也有教大家怎麼做, 說她的方式比較容易, 一目了然, 但我卻越看越花...

Although the knitting was finished 11 months ago but it was never done for I couldn't get myself to graft the pieces together for grafting was my Achille's heel. I read all the step by step pictorial tutorials online but just couldn't do it. Georgina, the MS4 designer, has her own way of doing it, which she said would easier to understand and execute, and taught us how to, but I was as confused as ever...


最近發現有幾件半成品想要完成, 才又會把意外的發現長披肩再拿出來準備縫接. 其實, 是在打另一件半成品花園蕾絲披肩時, 忽然覺得我可以平針縫接 (花園蕾絲披肩也是由兩邊往中間打再縫接起來), 打完後就憑著感覺縫接起來, 只是, 我接成了上針, 後來拆掉, 好好的把 knitty.com 上的平針縫接教學看一遍, 重新來一次才 OK. 於是, 要縫接意外的發現長披肩時就更有把握了.

Recently I wanted to finished a few UFOs, that was when I took out Serendipity for grafting. Actually, it was while I was knitting Gossamer Garden Stole when all of a sudden I felt I was ready to graft. So I grafted Gossamer Garden Stole


縫接完畢心裡覺得真是高興, 完成兩個半成品, 正在看剛縫接完的披肩時覺得怪怪的, 為何中間會有一整排的珠珠呢? 看了半天才恍然大悟: 我接錯邊了! 把一半的中間和另一半的起頭接在一起啦! 為何會這樣? 又說來話長.

I was so happy when I finshed grafting Serendipity but when I lookd at it and found it looking odd: I grafted one center to one end! And how did this happen? Another long story...


當初起針時設計師用一般起針法, 因為是打蕾絲披肩, 完成後要下水定型, 一般起針法怕彈性不夠, 影響定型, 於是我用別線起針, 打完後再來套收. 設計師有告訴過我不需要這樣, 直接起針即可. 我為何會有這樣的疑慮? 因為在歐美流行的神秘群織會, 不到最後不知道東西會長怎樣, 例如一個群織會打披肩, 一開始會說明披肩型狀, 大約呎吋, 所需線量及其他 (例如珠珠的量要多少), 且織圖會分很次給, 一星期給一部分, 再加上這個群織會織的披肩設計與重不同, 所以當時大家打的時候問題很多呢.

Serendipity used cable cast-on, but since we were knitting a lace stole, some of us in the KAL were concerned that it wouldn't be elastic enough for the final blocking. Georgina assured us and confirmed that cable cast-on would be fine, but still...it was a Mystery KAL, no one would know how the whole thing would look like until someone finish knitting it. Anyway, I used provisional cast-on and was going to cast-off later. And that's why I grafted one center to one end. Should've cast-off ages ago. Georgina did told me to do so long ago. Should've listen to the designer!


沒辦法一定要拆, 重新縫接. 第二次縫接到最後剩 1/4 時發現, 頭上 1/3 處少了一個步驟所以有個大洞, 只得退回去, 再來一次. 第三次縫接到完都 OK. 但是在量定型前尺寸時, 因為線頭都還沒有收, 一手將量好的披肩拿起來, 腳卻踩到縫收的線頭, 那條線因為拆了好幾次有些地方也比較鬆了, 結果在後 1/3 處斷掉! 只好把後 1/3 拆掉, 再重接. 真是一波四折. 為了避免夜長夢多, 當天趕快就下水定型.

So I had to redo it. When there was 1/4 left the second time, I found a hole at the first 1/3 where I left out a step and a hole was formed...had to unravel and do it again. The third time was fine. I took pictures before blocking and when I was picking up the stole I stepped on the the grafting yarn tail, since I ripped and grafted several times the yarn was a little worn at some parts, and it BROKE OFF at about 1/3 from the end of row! Ripped off AGAIN the latter 1/3 and REGRAFTED AGAIN! 4 grafting for one stole...to avoid further complications, I blocked the stole right away.


披肩定型後寬度只有 50 公分, 並不寬, 不過圍著 60 公分寬的春之鬱金香去過巴黎後發現, 這種寬度果然適合國外氣候用. 台灣氣候要的話一定要寬一點, 60+ 公分, 當披肩披時背才不會一半在外面還是很冷, 窄一點就只能折起來當圍巾用, 那還要看用的線夠不夠細, 不夠細當圍巾就會厚重, 怕不舒服或太悶熱. 要不然就得打窄一點, 真的當圍巾打, 不能做披肩打囉.

After blocking the stole it was only 50cm at width, not very wide, this is due to the wool laceweight yarn I use and the pattern was not extendable. After wearing 60cm wide Spring Tulips Stole to Paris, I realized that, really, 40~60cm width stoles are sufficient for the weather there. But in Taiwan, it has to be wider (60+cm, it will enlongate while in use), for when it's cold enough to use a stole, you want your whole back covered or the lower back will be chilly. If the stole is not wide enough to cover the whole back, it could be folded up and used as a scarf, but the stole itself should be knitted prefereably with thinner yarn (laceweight), if not it might be too bulky and uncomfortable around the neck.

2009-09-06

Spring Tulips Stole 春之鬱金香披肩



春之鬱金香披肩
開始日期: 2009/4/26
完成日期: 2009/5/17
圖樣: Spring Tulips Stole by Melanie Fuller
線材: Malabrigo Yarn Lace
顏色: #148 Holly Hock
針碼: 3.3mm (日規 4 號)
尺寸: 171.5 公分 x 60 公分


Spring Tulips Stole
Start date: 2009/4/26
Finish date: 2009/5/17
Pattern: Spring Tulips Stole by Melanie Fuller
Yarn: Malabrigo Yarn Lace
Color: #148 Holly Hock
Needle: 3.3mm (JP #4)
Size: 171.5cm x 60cm


為了去巴黎而打的披肩, 還是插在斜斜開襟外套中間打的. 花樣很容易記, 又好打, Malabrigo 蕾絲線手感極好, 用它打是種享受. Holly Hock 紫紅色打起來比光看毛線漂亮, 剛好又是很鬱金香的顏色. 去巴黎時都是晚上出去當圍巾用, 所以都沒有照相, 無真人示範.

This the stole I knitted specifically for my trip to Paris, started when I was knitting Oblique. The tulip pattern was easy to memorize, easy to knit, and Malabrigo Lace Merino was HEAVENLY to work with! The red purple Holly Hock looks even prettier knitted up then as a skein and it was perfect as the color tulips. But I wore it only at night in Paris, so no pictures were taken, hence, no modelling in person!




鬱金香蕾絲花
The tulips

2009-09-02

Recent updates: Oblique and Gossamer Garden Stole 作品近度更新: 斜斜開襟外套與花園蕾絲披肩

斜斜開襟外套四月開打至今快五個月了, 終於在八月底完成, 但是扣子還沒有買來縫, 外套也還沒有完全定型好, 至少希望下襬羅紋邊部分要拉平一點, 拉克蘭的部份也要再平一些, 等扣子縫好了下水洗過再定型.


尚未裝扣子或最後定型

Without buttons and final blocking

斜斜開襟外套
開始日期: 2009/4/16
完成日期: 2009/8/31
圖樣: Oblique by Véronik Avery
線材: CLS Pure Wools
顏色: #66 中麻灰
針碼: 4.5mm (日規 8 號)


Oblique

Start date: 2009/4/16

Finish date: 2009/8/31
Pattern:
Oblique by Véronik Avery
Yarn: CLS Pure Wools
Color: #66 Medium Heather Gray

Needle size: 4.5mm (JAP #8)

本來以為這外套可以在六月中去巴黎前打完, 但是近端午時天氣已經開始熱, 外套打不下去, 開始打去巴黎要用的春之鬱金香披肩 (尚未 po 文) , 所以道出發前打到剩一隻袖子. 回來後毛線都不想碰, 直到搬到暫住處才又把剩下的袖子打完. 第一次縫接織片時是用勾針以鎖針縫合, 結果太緊了點, 接縫不漂亮. 等道領子也打好時, 就把接縫拆開, 第二次就用隱型縫的方式, 結果好多了. 但是, 我縫得不夠密, 只要用一點拉接縫就會看到縫隙, 只好再把四邊拉克蘭的部分再拆開重新縫密一些, 就好多了. 至於脇邊和袖下就沒有逢第三次, 不知是否因為接縫兩邊是桂花針, 雖然縫得不夠密但是用點力拉開接縫好像沒有縫那麼大. 要找時間去買四個扣子來縫...這件外套打的結果還蠻滿意的, 只是織片縫接前我沒有把它們定型到應有的尺寸, 因為暫住處不方便所致. 我已經寄話把年初打的也是 Veronik Avery 設計的一塊半開襟外套拆掉重打, 之前打得太鬆, 尺寸又比較大, 希望重打後尺寸可以滿意.



第一半 120 排

First half at row 120


花園蕾絲披肩
開始日期: 2008/10/1

織圖:
Gossamer Garden Stole by Lia Liang
線材: Rowan Kidsilk Night (絲毛海)

顏色: 612 (紫紅)

針碼: 3.6mm (日規 5 號)

Gossamer Garden Stole

Start date: 2008/10/1

Pattern:
Gossamer Garden Stole by Lia W. Liang
Yarn: Rowan Kidsilk Night
Color: 612 (dusty magenta)

Needle size: 3.6mm (JP #5)


這條披肩在去年最後一次 po 文後進度龜速, 昨天拿出來重新開打前只打到了 94 排, 這還只是第一半呢! 每次拿出來打都只能打一兩排就要偷笑了, 不知道為何總是這麼慢. 昨天傍晚才開打到晚上兩小睡覺時已經打了26排 (120 排)! 今天兩小睡午覺起來後繼續打到兩小睡覺時又打了 30 排 (150 排)! 離完成還有 30 排! 重新開打的速度變快很多, 不知為何, 也許就是人家說的生一個孩子笨三年, 我一次生兩個要笨三年但是比人家成度上笨兩倍?!


花園蕾絲近照
Gossamer Garden Stole up close