2010-05-07

Kanzashi Stole 古簪披肩




古簪披肩
開始日期: 2010/4/7
完成日期: 2010/5/5
織圖: 古簪披肩 by Margaret Edelson
線材: KOLKA 極細羊毛線 25 g/250 m
顏色: #6 橄欖綠
線量: 約 3.5 球 (870 m)
針碼: 日規 4 號 (3.3 mm)
尺寸: 70 吋 x 22 吋
珠子: 568 顆 6 號 中管銀橄欖綠/咖啡雙色日本圓珠

Kanzashi Stole
Start date: 2010/4/7
Finish date: 2010/5/5
Pattern: Kanzashi Stole by Magaret Edelson
Yarn: KOLKA Series M 100% Peruvian Highland Wool 25 g/250 m
Color: #6 Olive
Quantity: about 3.5 balls (approx. 870 m)
Needle size: 3.3 mm (Japenese #4)
Size: 70 in x 22 in
Beads: 568 size 6 silver lined two-tone olive and brown Japanese seed bead




早在三月就開始找織圖要來打母親節的禮物. 手上不少蕾絲披肩織圖, 就是找不到滿意的. 覺得夠好看夠複雜的難度都很高, 正反兩面都要做蕾絲, 因為可以專心織的時間不多, 每次織的時間也不長, 所以不能選太難的. 偏偏符合我編織時間品質的織圖, 感覺上又都太簡單, 不夠令人嘆為觀止, 怕老母不會滿意. 一天與瑪姐聊天, 想到手上有不少需要幫瑪姐測織的披肩織圖, 於是瑪姐說要不要測織古簪披肩啊? 想想也好, 因為是長型的, 我可以加珠珠增添點華麗感.

Early in March I started pattern hunting for Mother's Day. I have lots of lace shawl patterns in my collection but couldn't find one satisfying enough. Because this is for my mother, a very skilled knitter, and a picky one, thus, tough time on decisions. I don't have much time for knitting nowadays, and the time available for it isn't long, either, so I wouldn't want to over exert myself on a challenging lace shawl, but the shawls that wouldn't tire me too much simply weren't complicated enough for my mother's taste. Then, I had a talk with my dear friend Maragret, and the several patterns she designed that I have still to test-knit, she suggested why not test-knit Kanzashi Stole (originally called Antique Filigree)? I thought it a good idea, for it's rectangular shaped and I happen to have some beads to add some glamour to it.


為符合此披肩的設計精神, 蕾絲線顏色選擇讓我很傷腦筋, 因為庫存中唯一符合古董的顏色就只有這組橄欖綠的純羊毛極細線, 又剛好有買珠子配, 雖然我不是很情願用這色, 但還是硬給他用下去.

In order to concorde with the philisophy of the design, I had a hard time deciding the yarn color, too. The only color in my stash that fits the antique feel is this pure wool olive color lace yarn, and I do have beads to go with it. Although reluctantly, I chose the color anyway.


正式開打前, 還打了塊織片加上兩種不同大小的珠子, 好決定用那種大小和顏色, 也好計算披肩完成候大約呎吋, 起針數, 幾個花樣重複等等.

Before casting on officially, I made a swatch with 2 different sizes of beads to decide definitely bead size and color, number of stitches to cast on, approximate size of the finished stole, and numbers of repeat of the kanzashi pattern.



織片中兩種大小的珠子, 左邊 8 號, 右邊 6 號.
2 different sizes of beads in the swatch, 8 on the left, 6 on the right.



8 號中管銀黃色日本圓珠
Size 8 silver lined yellow Japanese seed bead



6 號中管銀橄欖/咖啡雙色日本圓珠
Size 6 silver lined 2-tone olive and brown Japanese seed bead



披肩由正中央向兩端打, 完成第一半時, 很不滿意, 因為覺得左右的邊和尾端的邊搭不起來, 還有中間別線起針解開挑針時出錯, 再加上這純羊毛線沒啥彈性, 很難搞, 所以心情特差, 想要拆掉. 但是測織還是要有交代, 還是要把打好的部份拉開看看, 好給設計師瑪姐建議.

The stole in knitted fron the center out. When I finished the first half I was very upset for I wasn't convinced by the combination of the side and end borders. To make matters worse, I messed up picking up the stitches from the provisional cast-on, and the yarn being pure wool lack elasticity, gave a me even harder time fixing the problem. I really wanted to rip it out, but as I was test knitting, I need to have feedbacks, so I pinned out the half, took some pictures, and wrote down some suggestions.



暫時拉開部分第一半
Partially stretched first half



尾端邊讀蕾絲和珠子, 因為拉開的關係, 三排珠子呈波浪狀.
The end border and beads. The 3-row beads turn into an undulating shape when stretched.



本來很鬱悶想拆掉, 但看到尾端蕾絲和三排珠子因為拉開成波浪狀, 覺得很好看, 最後決定繼續打完它.

I was so frustrated and wanted to rip, but when I saw the end border and the 3-row beads pulled into an undulated shape I thought it looked beautiful. And then I decided to finish the second half.



定型後的髮簪花樣
The kanzashi pattern after blocking



兩端邊和波浪三排珠
The end border and the 3-row undulated beads



左右邊與兩端邊, 最後決定將左右邊拉平.
Side and end borders. I decided to keep the side border flat.



過節當天讓小若拿給老母, 感覺上好像有喜歡, 因為老母說了句這花跟他打的某條蕾絲披肩花很像. 我很肯定地告訴她: 不, 絕對不一樣. 而且這條是世界上第一條完成的古簪披肩, 要有一樣的花, 都是後來才打出來的.

I had Scarlett delivered the shawl on Mother's Day and seemed like my mother was quite fond of it. For she said something that the kanzashi pattern look like a lace shawl she knitted (the Bleeding Heart Stole by Anne Hanson). I told her that it was definitely not the same. Besides, this is the FIRST Kanzashi Stole in the WORLD, any other kanzashi or kanzashi-alike stoles/shawls come AFTER yours.


老母沒批評我就很高興了.

Well, I'm glad she didn't criticize.